BAKED BEANS BY DESPINA SIAHULI

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We’re so happy to have been able to provide many culinary experiences over the past three years, crafting delicious meals from scratch, and connecting with like-minded people from all over the world - people who love food and everything about it! One of those people is among our favourite Greek chefs, Despina Siahuli.

Despina hosted our very first retreat here at Mèlisses, with a focus on local traditions and gastronomy. Having her in the kitchen was just like having a Greek YaYa cooking for us! Day and night, embodied by this fun, young and energetic person, full of passion and genuine enthusiasm for food.

Every day was a big feast; from roasted lamb, to delicious homemade pita bread or pies, no detail was overlooked. Seasonal food, plated beautifully and full of favour. Despina’s food is comforting and honest, and transports you immediately into her childhood food memories.

“My food focuses on simple, seasonal cooking that is nourishing for body and soul. When I moved from Athens to London ten years ago, I began to create a whole new set of food memories based on the food I grew up on, the food I craved and missed the most. I believe that my heritage —and everything else I cook — is almost like a long journal entry of my life, influenced by everything I’ve been exposed to.

The food I dream of when I think about my beloved Greece tends towards simplicity. Beans are perhaps the most typical of true peasant, humble food and this is one of my favourite ways to make them.

The recipe can be made with any type of good quality bean, and if you’re going to cook them from dry you might as well make a big batch, that you can freeze or use for other recipes like a bean salad, soups, or bean and herbs dips”.

Below, Despina shares one of her staple recipes, something soothing, reassuring and easy to make.

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BAKED BEANS IN TOMATO SAUCE

Ingredients:

  • 250-300 g dried beans or 2 tins, drained (liquid discarded); haricot, flageolet, cannellini, borlotti, any beans you like!

  • 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped

  • 1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped

  • 1 big celery stick, washed and finely chopped

  • 2 garlic gloves, peeled and finely chopped

  • 2 tsp sweet or smoked paprika

  • 2 bay leaves, broken in half for more flavour

  • 200 g fresh tomato, roughly chopped, or tinned tomatoes

  • 1 tsp tomato paste

  • 1 handful fresh herbs (for this recipe we prefer parsley, chervil, oregano and thyme)

  • ½ tsp boukouvo or chilli flakes (optional)

  • ½ cup wine (optional)

  • sugar or any fruit molasses, to balance the acidity of the sauce

  • olive oil

  • salt & pepper to taste

Method:

If you have time on your hands, it’s really worth the effort to cook your own beans. Cooked dried beans taste better and they also create a lovely creamy broth that can be used in your recipe. Soak the beans overnight, for at least 12 hours. Drain and transfer them to a heavy pot, cover by at least 10 cm of water, add bay leaves, and simmer slowly till just tender. Skim off any foam that rises to the surface. Remove the pan from heat and season with salt. 
Meanwhile, pre-heat your oven to 180 C. 

In large and deep pan, warm some olive oil over a low heat and fry the onion for a few minutes. Add garlic, celery, carrots, half your chopped herbs, and cook for about 5 minutes. Now is the time to add some more aromas; paprika, chilli flakes, tomatoes, tomato paste and the wine, and cook until tender and fragrant, about 8 minutes. Add sugar or fruit molasses to balance the acidity of the tomato sauce.

Bring together the cooked beans and the vegetable and tomato mixture in a deep heavy bottomed pot, and add enough of the liquid in which the beans have cooked to come about half way up. Season to taste with salt, pepper and maybe some more olive oil. Stir well and cook uncovered in the oven for about 40 minutes. Check occasionally and add more bean broth or warm water as needed. 

Add the remaining chopped herbs (adding some more chilli flakes and dried oregano would be a great idea), then drizzle with olive oil and adjust the seasoning to taste. We love to serve with feta, toasted bread, grilled sausages or wilted greens.

We hope you’ll enjoy it as much as we do! Kali orexi x

For more inspiration visit  @pan_ldn

Photos by Allegra Pomilio and Ingrid Hofstra